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PHOTO IDENTIFICATION:

1. Passenger side profile.

2. Passenger side front 3/4.

3. Driver side front 3/4.

4. Passenger rear extreme 3/4. Again the reason we have these shots are to give you a good look down the sides at as many angle as we can to show you the condition of the panels.

5. Driver side profile.

6. Driver side top 3/4 showing you the roof.

7. Driver side extreme 3/4 top view.

8. Full front close up. Notice bull bar and 1966 Cobra Jet Hood Scoop.

9. Rear tail gate in down position showing you the jam area in close up. Notice small fray on tail gate panel edge.

10. Driver side extreme low shot.

11. California DMV Certification / Verification that the vehicle passed all the new motor and smog requirements for the State. This I figure is worth about $7500.00 as if we had done this conversion outside the State of California we would not have had to gone to a lot of the added expense that we did.

12. Rear full shot in close up. Notice Bumper Buddy (bumper with storage area on the inside) has 2 locks on either side and is water tight.

13. Driver side rear panel where the California Tag is located. Again just another view of an area not often photographed to show you the condition of the wheel well area / quarter panels. We obviously take care of this vehicle.

14. Dash shot showing it's outstanding condition.

15. Rear passenger side 3/4 shot. We left this photo dark to show the straightness of the body. Other photos (depending on subject matter) are somewhat lighter to best balance the photo.

16. Extreme low shot showing lower passenger side door panels, wheel well, lower leading edge of running board and pinch weld.

17. Full front view of face plate of the 1000 watt inverter. Note this faces the rear seat for easy access and has 2 plugs.

18. Close up of the bull bar. Note this has the frame and cut out area for a winch if you want to install one. We never really had any need for one as this vehicle was not used in extreme 4X4 conditions / rallies.

19. Driver's side mirror. Note the mirrors are not the small stock mirrors normally found on FJ60s. We still have the originals in like new condition but, replaced these with the larger Australian FJ40 mirrors which are even larger than the later model (post 1987) FJ60 mirrors. Really great to have better view of what is around you.

20. Again another extreme view to show you a different angle of the vehicle.

21. Shot of drive train. Note here the pristine condition (NO RUST) of the under carriage. Once every 2-3 years we normally undercoat the vehicle only in areas that the factory had undercoated. The center is normally left un-coated where we have undercoated the wheel wells and lower out board panels as the factory has done. I only wish my camera could get better photos of the undercarriage. Unfortunately the auto focus and flash do not allow much lead way. I assure you that upon personal inspection you will find this photo representational of the over all condition of the rest of the undercarriage.

22. Photo of the underside of the rear seat and the seat belts.

23. Sorry sort of a poor quality shot of the rear carpet area. Still gives you a good idea of how clean our FJ is.

24. Shot of rear cargo area with rear seat in folded position.

25. Just another extreme angle for your inspection.

26. Close up of shifters. Note we wanted to keep the look of a stock manual shifter but this is an AUTOMATIC SHIFTER. We mention below more about this. Note we have some wear (paint only) on the neck of the shifter and on the dash panel where the AC / Heating controls are. CB radio is installed just below the radio. Also note that there Radio / Cassette player but, we have a SONY replacement as well which is included with your purchase of this vehicle. Be sure to read to the bottom of this page to see an extensive list of new in box items that we never got around to installing. WORTH OVER $2500.00!

27. Driver's side door shot. Note the typical damage / tare on the seat. A new seat cover will run you about $75.00.

28. Another Driver's side door shot. Note the typical damage / tare on the seat.

29. Close up of driver's seat damage. This is the ONLY damage to any seat in the vehicle. 90% of the time only one person was in this vehicle... the driver.

30. Close up of driver's seat damage.

31. Passenger side seat.

32. Driver's side door ID Plate. Note the care we took in painting this area (as well as others) not to cover details like this. Also note the condition of the paint and metal!

33. Side shot of the inverter uncovered between the seats. If you look at other interior photos you will see our custom padded cover made of the same color and texture vinyl to keep the stock look of the original interior while added comfort / some place for the driver to rest his arm or hold his loved one's hand. The hard and low original center council offered non of these creature comforts. Also not that the rest of the driver's seat like other seats throughout are in very good to excellent condition.

34. One of my personal favorites!!! The BUMPER BUDDY... I will miss this feature. What this is... is a bumper with a secret storage area. Just lift the lid and you have area for a couple of 6 packs of drinks, tow ropes, 4 tire chains, tools etc. Area measures roughly 64" X 5" X 6" so you can see you have a lot of space for items you would not what to be without but, also would not want cluttering up your interior space. Note we also have a special tow package 2" receiver set up already. We never really used this to tow anything but, which should not stop you.

35. Just a shot of the passenger side mirror.

36. Shot of the rear seat... note pristine condition.

37. Shot of wheel well. One of the few I can get my camera into. This is the front driver's side. Again we painted and undercoated areas like this as w=they are most prone to rock chips / damage. Note we have a few brand new parts just installed. This buffer and the one on the passenger's side are new. When we re-painted a few months ago I noticed that these parts had never been replaced. As we have replaced all other buffer and control arm / suspension units I thought these should be replaced too. Of course this was before I was forced to sell our FJ60.

38. Passenger side front door panel.

39. Passenger side rear door panel.

40. Close up of dash rub mark where my adjusting of the AC/ Heat wears away the paint. This part could be re-painted in a matter of 1 hour. That is 20 minutes to get the part out and 10 minutes to paint and then replace again. I never really thought it was worth the trouble as I was the only one to see it anyway. Well at least it gives you something to do as we have done 99% of everything else already.

41. Driver's side front door panel.

42. Driver's side rear door panel.

43. Just a close up of the COOL ASS SAFARI SNORKEL. You are not likely to ever be able to find one of these in the USA.

44. Another shot of the interior.

45. Front underneath shot showing you the excellent condition as well as new / replacement parts: Leaf Springs (see below for more information as these are not stock), steering control arm, transmission cooler / radiator, etc.

46. Photo of roof liner. Here it is almost impossible to see where the damage is. The next photo helps you out a little.

47. The tare is circled in red.

48. This small tare is only about 1.5 inches in length. It is the main reason why we are selling this vehicle. In short we have put a lot of time, money, effort and care in to our beloved FJ60. She has performed for years (with the original straight 6 cylinder as well as new V8 engine) and we although we have put more than $40,000.00 into her she has re-paid us in fun and performance well over that value in these 8+ years. I have always taken good care of her over the years and have not hesitated to fix or replace anything she may have needed even when the normal owner may have not done so. In the past 2 years since we have moved from San Francisco to the farm in Kentucky the application of our FJ60 has changed dramatically. Gone are the days the past where she got used solely for leisure. Here she gets neglected and somewhat abused. The fact is that this tare happened when I had to transport a couple of bails of hay and a few steel fence posts. The tractor was in use and I figure if I wrapped the bails of hay in garbage bags (to keep the LC clean) and carefully / slowly drove down the lane... what could happen? Yeah right... Anyway when I took out the last fence post the end hit the roof liner and cut it. I could have died... I knew then that I would end up destroying my beloved FJ60 if I continued to do this. Unfortunately we do not have the money to buy another vehicle (what I need is a pick up truck) and keep the FJ60 especially when we do not use her that much anymore. Sad to say she has to go or I will just end up desecrating her. Sort of like using your Ferrari to hall trees around. So she has to find a good home where she will not be abused anymore. This is why we are selling her and why I am willing to take a loss. Better this than watching her die at my own hand.

49. Another angle of the interior rear seat area.

50. Close up of the front wheel. Note we do mention below that we got these because they were scratched from the film shoot. But, as you can see (or not really see well anyway) the scratches are in the clear coat only and we could not keep them on the 4 Runner and sell it as new.

51. Shot of inverter cover from the rear.

52. Rear cargo area with seat up.

53. Rear cargo area with seat up.

54. Rear cargo area with seat up.

55. Rear wheel close up... same as #50.

56. Passenger side view of the engine compartment. Not much new here that you can not see in the above driver's side shot. Note that we did take the time to paint out the engine compartment (remember this use to be that bad Toyota Orange / Red color) to black to look more stock but, we have never cleaned or detailed the engine as we have just been too busy. Good view of Chevrolet Air Conditioner.

57. Drivers side view of the engine compartment. You can see the duel batteries; with the huge cables that daisy chain the two together and one ends up inside for the 1000-watt inverter. Also a high flow / performance (yet CA. street legal) air intake filter also moved up away from ground water splash. Note that the Safari Snorkel is no longer hooked up as it is not needed with the air intake so high and so well protected. Snorkel still provides incoming air for ventilation and added cooling. You can sort of see the front mounted 18" radiator fan just in front of the radiator. Basically a good shot of the V8 LT-1 motor. Stock on the out side with the exception of the chrome cast iron value covers. Inside is a whole other story. See below.

58. Front shot of engine compartment.

59. Rear Tail Gate shot showing you the condition of the carpet / padded cover.

60. Shot of the Steve Young (Ex-Quarter Back SF 49ers) Mud Driving Commercial where the 1999 wheels came from. See below for more information.

HISTORY:

Why are we selling it?: Good question... I love this vehicle dearly but, in our move from San Francisco to Liberty Kentucky I find that my beloved LC is just getting abused / neglected cosmetically. I would love to keep her but, what I really need for the farm is a pick up truck that is beat to hell. We already have one other reliable 4 X 4 that is enclosed so what I need is an open rear end for transporting hay and other items that just mess up a clean beautiful vehicle. Unfortunately I do not have the money to buy a pick up and if I did I would feel bad to have the LC just sit unused. I just spent too much time, effort, TLC and money on her and had too many great road trips / adventures to just look at her sitting stagnant. I respect her too much and really feel she needs a new home where she will get used and cared for the way I used to when I had the time for adventures in 4 wheeling.

As mentioned above what really forced this sale is my accidentally putting a small tare in the head liner... I still cringe at the thought of this happening especially since I took such great care to avoid any damage. Just could not have been helped. The new owner must promise not to abuse her in this same manner.

This has always been (3 owner as I am the 3rd) a NO SMOKING vehicle.

This is not a vehicle for just anyone... Unlike the now-a day SUV this is a true four-wheel drive truck that was meant to be used. The FJ 60 Station wagon is far more luxurious and rare than its smaller brother is the FJ40 short wheel base. Both use the state of the art (for the time and even now) suspension and drive trains. Built to almost out last the Sahara Desert itself.

If you do not want or like people coming up to you and asking questions about your car then do not buy this truck. Everyday and everywhere we go people stop point, photograph and ask about one thing or another. You are everyone's friend. Everyone's friend except drivers of Land Rovers and other high profile non-custom SUVs as it is obvious that they bought the wrong thing. I especially enjoy the on the road encounters where you are driving up a mountain on a 4 lane road at a legal and comfortable 55 mph. Then appears the infamous new 4-Runner, Land Rover, New V8 Land Cruiser or other V8 US made SUV. They cruise up (as they saw you for miles wondering what the hell is that?) They get up to you and the passenger is asking the driver about why he does not have that funny looking snorkel thing. Wanting for an answer he just applies more power to show off that he has a bigger motor and more power than what looks like want-to-be Safari trash. But, wait... he is not losing you... there is something wrong with this picture. That 15+-year-old piece of Japanese history only has 136-horse power straight 6. How can it keep up on this mountain grade? Wait... he is going in front of us... I am sooooo confused...

I love the look in the rear view mirror of them wondering if there is something wrong with their truck. Best of all are the Hummer, Land Rover and V8 Toyota Land Cruiser people... What did they spend $75,000.00+ for? Little do they know that this is not your ordinary $10,000.00 used vintage Land Cruiser. Well you get what you pay for... Best of all is when you get off road and pull other more expensive and supposedly high tech SUVs out of trouble you will understand better what we are talking about. It is all part of the nostalgia and mystique of the Land Cruiser history.

The Purchase: I bought this Land Cruiser in 1995 for $7500.00 in Iowa and at the time it had 195,546 miles on the odometer. Being from a family of more than 25 years of Toyota Land Cruiser owners and more then 6 different Cruisers over the years I know the quality of these vehicles and had no problems or worries about buy a high mileage vehicle as these are built to take 10 times this mileage. Plus, I knew I would be replacing all suspension units, brakes, running gear and motor anyway. All I cared about was a good body without any rust problems or bodywork required. This is why I choose a post 1982 Land Cruiser. After 1982 the Japanese had solved problems they had had with moisture in the metal that ended up rusting from the inside out. This is why you see most pre 1982 Japanese vehicles with serious rust problems. After this date it all comes down to care and maintenance of the vehicle.

Paint: I had found this vehicle via my brother back home in Iowa of all places. I sent our friend and local paint guy down to inspect the truck. Greg gave us his thumbs up and we bought it from his high recommendation. There was no rust and only a small dent (quarter size) on the front fender. We had Greg fix the dent and we had the under carriage steam cleaned, chemical washed and then treated with rust inhibitor. After that we undercoated the areas that the factory had undercoated and re-painted in black the under side of the vehicle for looks and future protection. In the first month of ownership I had our local paint shop (St Donatus Body & Paint) sand down the old awful orange red color and repaint with a basic fleet white. I know the shop name might not ring a bell as being an Oakland Roadster show wining shop but, they are up and coming. Greg Kalmes the owner has a real talent and has done many high end Ferraris, Corvettes, Mustangs, Muscle Cars and Street Rods. Call him for details and pricing while he is still reasonable... I think the wait is only 6 months now... 563-773-8825. This means we took off all interior pieces, all trim and painted all door jams and underneath all panels. We left one small area (less than 1 square) on the driver's side below the dash in the original color for historical value. So you might think from tarring off the door panels that this was original white when this is not the case. Of course that was 7+ years ago and of course over the years we have made minor repairs / modifications to keep the truck in tip top shape as well as looking cosmetically good. Of course with any repair / touch up nothing in 100% perfect, but we assure you that any flaw in the paint or body work is hardly noticeable. After all if we can not photograph it then you would have a hard time seeing it in person too. Now the paint is at least 90 points out of 100 points, with the occasional rock chip, tiny (not through the base coat) scratch or tiny dent. These are all so small that they are not really noticeable and so insignificant that they are un photographable. Just look at the photos... we tried to give you every angle to see any possible tiny mark but, even to the naked eye you can not see these easily. Close inspection of any vehicle (even new) will reveal small discrepancies in the paint and body work. All the aforementioned are minor repairs that we have done over the years which makes the paint less than perfect. Any touch up / fix has been done via sanding to the bare metal, skim coat if needed, rust inhibiting treatment, sprayed with rust inhibiting primer the painted with matching white paint and clear coat.

1966 Cobra Jet Hood Scoop: Originally we were told that if we were going to place a Chevy motor in this we would need more cooling capacity and more height for the new engine. Not knowing for sure that this was true or how much room would be needed we went with as large a hood scoop as we could find... Finding a cool hood scoop proved to be more of a problem. The shop we used specializes in restorations of 1960's Mustangs and other cool Muscle cars. Talking with Greg (the owner) on day we joked about what it might look like with a Cobra Jet hood scoop. He had one in from an in process job and we laid it on and stood back... The photo tells it all... it was love at first sight. Finding an original one was not hard but, we did pay for it. The reproductions we saw were $75.00+ and not very crisp or and finished in quality as the originals. We also wanted this to be mounted and painted to match so we bit the bullet. No regrets.

Safari Snorkel: This was supplied by the then distributor in Atlanta for most of the Australian LC options. When we had this hooked up was also had the cross over manifold from Australia (which we were lucky to find) as the air intake on US FJ60 is on the opposite side that the snorkel. Once we changed to the Chevy motor this became mostly ornamental. But if you are like me and like to drive a unique vehicle this is for you. Anyone can buy a Ford Explorer or new Land Cruiser but, who wants to look like everyone else? Vehicles often reflect the owner's personality or sense of adventure and that is what this Cruiser or any older Land Cruisers are all about. This suppliers is no longer in business (I think) and we had also gotten the rubber fender guards from them which we took off some years ago and filled any holes in the body (just above the wheel wells) that were used to attach the guards. What we did not like about these was that they faded and cracked with in 2 years of installation.

Interior: During the painting process we replaced all warn interior parts which did not amount to much as the vehicle was in excellent condition. The rear seat in fact look as though it had never been sat in. Both front seats needed new foam padding (which we added) but the covers show very little ware. The carpeting was completely replaced with a higher quality but, color correct carpet to match the original. Drivers and passenger seats were re-stuffed / cushioned at this time. Over the years of use the drivers side seat has developed the typical tare in the seat base along the seem where vinyl meets the cloth. No big deal to fix with a replacement seat cover available from a number of different Land Cruiser vendors. Expect about $75.00 hit on this item. No problem with the cushions or padding as it is near new. There may be a small spot or two in the very rear cargo area carpet that I may have missed... The roof liner is in very good condition but, could use some cleaning around the edges from hand prints etc.... only one small tare (I shaped about 1 inch long and wide... see above photos) nothing missing just an area where I had a glancing blow with a steel fence post... see the statement above as this is one reason we are selling the vehicle... I am a bad owner now and we need to find a new home for our beloved FJ60 before I do any more damage to her.

Tinted Windows: When we tinted the windows (all except windshield, drivers and passengers front windows) with standard shade found in current production vehicles (medium dark) we also added sound deadening to all doors, side panels, tail gate and floor to quiet the ride.

CB radio is already installed and has a quick release hand mic with 3 foot coil cord that has a socket mounted in one of the spare / empty areas for extra switches in the dash just right of and below the steering wheel.

All gauges work and are correct for the motor. Speedo (I am guessing as really tough to measure for sure) reads about 3-5 miles slower then you are really traveling. In short if speedometer reads 55 mph then you are likely at 60 mph. This difference is due to tire size. Oil temp / pressure and voltmeter were all checked after V8 installation. The temperature gauge has a line drawn on the plastic to show correct operating temperature for the V8. Basically it is just below the midway point.

The Dash is near mint. Actually amazing in that most I have seen have cracks. Ours does not have any cracks. The only ware is on the lower flat part of the air (sliding levers) controls. The paint (black) in this area is worn through to expose the gray plastic. Not even noticeable unless you really look for it. (see photo above)

The windshield was replaced many years ago (before I got the vehicle) and has NO cracks or chips. The Bull bars and the Cobra Jet Hood scoop act as an air flow deflector similar to that of the ugly after market plastic things new owners place on their hoods. Another good reason to have the hood scoop and Bull Bars.

Carpet is very good throughout. Yes we do have floor mattes (front and rear) and have always used them. No they are not the originals. Originals are rubber I think, anyway these carpeted and far better for controlling dirt.

Finding the right shop for conversion: This was a huge issue for me. I talked to everyone I could find on the subject for 2 years. Every major shop in the country was asked to supply the same information... I wanted to use someone who had done a FJ60 before. Not one of these FJ40s but, an actual FJ60 station wagon. I got the same response... we just did one or they are no different that the 40... blah, blah, blah... I asked for photos of engine compartments and interiors as we were very particular in this area and any references. Out of 14 shops specializing in this type of conversion no one could supply a single photograph. When it got down to it most only did off road conversions or you had to always go back to them for the smog certificate. Their were a few in California who looked like they did quality work but, the price tag started at $25,000.00 as a minimum... and that was only the motor, computer and transmission. Everything else or any problems was extra. I had only budgeted only $18,000.00 and being from a automotive family I thought that was enough. In the end it did cost us about $27,000.00 but, that was all-inclusive (not county the donor vehicle or other added parts).

Anyway my criteria was short... I wanted a conversion for no more than $20,000.00 and it must be 100% California Street Legal and able to pass CA. Smog Tests for years to come. Oh and lastly I wanted a 2-year warranty. No one could guarantee the above request. I then talked to a friend in the vintage boat and car business and he said that the guy he used in San Mateo was one of the best engine builders on the West Coast especially for Chevy. I took his name and went to see him. Al Leist at Machine Shop Services was skeptical at first as he hears this type of song and dance every day from guys like me. Only difference was that I had real world car restoration experience and the money to back it up.

In short talking with Al for 15 minutes closed the deal. Al is a no bullshit kind of guy. Do it right or get the $#@& out of my shop. He understood that I was fully aware that this project would cost a boat load of money and would take months to finish. We were after all crossing virgin territory here. Al's back ground is the same as mine except his starts in 1950. Total gear head with the exception that he has all the person experience to back it up where I am just a tag-a-long shop rag. Anyway Al can clue you in if you call him... 650-342-1966. There ain't nothing he can not do with a little time and a whole lot of money. After all the only thing that beats cubic inches is cubic dollars.

So we started by ordering a motor and transmission. This alone took 5 months to find a quality one that had correct coding for California smog requirements. Once we started it took in all 4 months as nothing fit plug and play. All this BS about this adapter and that adapter is total horse hockey or as Al says "Happy Horse Shit". The first big revelation was the supposed plug and play Advanced Adapter mod leaked oil. Al's research revealed that they all leaked. He took it apart and found that it was just not machined deep enough. So that was fixed and we have perhaps one of the first that does not leak. Anyway the next fiasco was the engine mounts for the FJ40 NOT the FJ60... This placed the motor so far forward that you could stand behind the engine just in front of the fire wall. So all new brackets and positioning had to be done. Engine went in and out of the body 6 times until it was exactly right. This meant that we had to cut the frame and fabricate a new frame member. Nothing a little more money can fix. Basically Al is the only person I know who can legitimately do this conversion. I think the last estimate for this job (if he were to do another one) would be $25,000.00+ and 3 months. We did loose a lot of time in the RND stages. I am making all of this sound very straight forward and simple but, it was not. For 4 months not a day went by without a call from Al. Little things as well as the big stuff; like position of the shifter... important stuff like that as well as updates. In short Al lost money on this deal or broke even but, he is set up to do it again. So if you have a Land Cruiser and $25,000.00 then away you go. Or you might take a look at what it would cost to do it in time, money and a vehicle that would not have half of the stuff we have already done and ready to go.

Al balanced and blue printed the motor (for those of you who do not know what this means... The entire motor was torn down to the bare block and all parts were either reconditioned to new specs. or were replaced with new parts. Additionally all original manufacture specs. were followed / measured for correct tolerances (blue-printing) and the pistons and valves + springs were weighed and measured then matched together in pairs to be the same weight and rate (balancing)... We replaced the high performance cams with heavy duty truck cams as well as other items lost to my memory that Al can remember to achieve a higher gas mileage economy. This was all done basically so that the transmission, engine and computer all were thinking like a truck. A new chip was burned to make the computer think it was more a truck that a Corvette or Caprice. This is really important as the Gross Vehicle Weight, Wheel Base and many other variables need to be taken in to account to achieve maximum performance / gas mileage as well as to assure the appropriate shift pattern from the computer controlled transmission sensors.

1999 Wheels: The New 1999 Toyota 4-Runner alloy rims are from a Northern California Toyota Car Commercial we shot with Steve Young. The spot is the typical spot we do every year where we show the SUVs in action, which always involves a mud bath scene. Problem this time was that the location was bottom farm land that use to be a river bed. Thousands of little round stones mixed up in the dirt that then was transformed into a mud bog via a water truck. The new wheels were the type that had a clear coat sprayed on for protection and good looks. Well the stones lightly scratched the clear coat and thus we could not return this to the distribution center to be sold as new in this condition. These wheels not being available as an of vehicle option meant that we had to get new ones via the distributor. I about choked when I heard the retail price of $4000.00... yes $1000.00 per rim. Because we had not foreseen this we had to fix it at our cost. Thankfully Steve signed some extra footballs and T-shirts for the distribution staff and we got them at cost $1300.00.

Getting these on was a whole other story... Wrong off set, wrong width, wrong tire size... Our good friends at Dependable Tire and Brake in San Rafael 415-456-2311 ask for Ron or Tom really came through for us. Basically it is more complex than this but, they had built for them a bolt to adapter that was different in front and rear to account for all the problems. I think most of you would agree that these look very sharp and it is extra cool that they are Toyota products and not so after market wheel. This same shop has done all the brake work and tires for this vehicle. I have thousands of dollars in receipts to prove everything I claim.

Tires: Basically we went with the largest (while still being correct so as not to throw of the Speedo and being user friendly in regards to smooth ride) that was available that the factory recommended. Size and Type are BF Goodrich Radial Long Trail A/T 245 / 70R16-107S M+S. Remaining tread is 10.2mm or 0.40 inches in depth. I am guessing that this is just over half-life. I have had only two sets of tires on this vehicle in the 40,000 miles I have owned it. The current tires are the same manufacture and rubber compound as the first set which lasted 30,000 miles. So you have at least 18,000+ miles worth of tread (highway miles)left on these.

Spare Tire: Yes the spare is the original rim with a NEW / UNUSED tire. These is 100% OK to use as the old bolt pattern is the same as the new bolt pattern and the off set of the original rim is far less than the late model one. Thus the spare fits perfectly and does not hit anything either in the front or rear. So you can drive on it with NO PROBLEM. Note that the diameter is exactly the same between the original and the new yet it is far better than on those 1/4 size spares supplied with most new vehicles these days. Regardless you should use the spare accordingly and drive directly to your nearest tire shop to have the flat repaired... same as you would with any spare tire.

Tire Chains: Yes you do get 4 tire chains… and yes I have had need to use them in the Sierra Nevada. These are the heavy duty (real chains) made specifically for these tires… about $175.00 a pair. Located in the rear bumper compartment for added convenience (keeping them out of the interior space).

Yes you do get a 4 piece / cross style lug wrench as the lug nuts were switched from Toyota / metric pattern to a US Standard. In short the original lug wrench will not work and is inferior to this anyway.

Suspension: Like I said above we replaced all running gear and anything that looked warn or in need of upgrading... basically everything. In 1995 - 96 we replaced the front leaf springs with Old Man Emu medium ride springs. This allows a soft yet firm ride. We replaced the rear leaf springs with Old Man Emu medium to hard ride springs. Over all this added 3 inches in ride height to the profile. The medium to hard springs in the rear offer a nice yet stiff ride when you are totally empty and a much greater load capacity then the standard medium springs. I think the ideal ride is when you have at least 150 lbs. of added stuff in the back. The medium to hard have a massive last bend leaf, which only comes into play with very heavy loads, say... over 1000 lbs. As we used this truck for work and from time to time we had 4 people with 800 lbs. of shop equipment we also added an air bag / coil suspension to smooth it even more out when fully loaded. The air bags are adjustable from 5 psi (little effect) to 55 psi for the times you are really over loaded. Again this is an area where we over thought the whole thing but, better over thinking it then under prepared.

The Shocks we used Bosch gas adjustable and set them to the second stiffest setting so there is room there for a more cushy ride if you wanted. As this vehicle very quickly became a person vehicle and not use in work as much as we thought we would, there should be no reason to replace shocks for at least another 3-6 years. Leaf springs above should be good for the life time of the truck.

Bull Bars: Nearly Brand New 2000 Black Powder Coated ARB Bull bars in steel. This Bull Bar is the type with the place for the wench to be mounted. It also has a couple of mounting brackets for the driving lights we have listed below.

Inverter (1000 watt & Frequency Controlled): This is one of the more interesting items on board.... Like camping? How about this... The inverter inverts (changes) DC power from the duel 850 amp batteries to AC Power. 1000 watts that are frequency controlled. Frequency controlled means that unlike those cheap $200.00 inverters available at Radio Shack that do NOT guarantee 60 Hz (cycles per second) this one does. If you we running a toaster / lights or anything that did NOT have a motor or gears it would not matter. But if you run a VCR, Camcorder, Microwave, Refrigerator or Lap Top Computer and use an AC adapter you will eventually fry the motors of these systems because less costly inverters fluctuate from 10 Hz to 80 Hz which kills this appliances. This inverter is GARENTTEED TO ALWAYS OPERATE BETWEEN 55 Hz and 60 Hz, thus protecting your appliances from permanent damage. That is what frequency control is all about and why they are far more expensive that non-frequency controlled models.

We mounted the inverter between the driver and passenger seats and covered it with a custom padded / protective cover. Note that this cover needs to be removed if the inverter is used for more than 10 minutes as the inverter needs air for cooling. There is a built in 30 amp breaker and double safety switch. The duel batteries can handle the total 1000 watts for about 2.5 hours before you need to start the engine to recharge the batteries. That is a lot of power being used and is very uncommon to do so as it means running a number of power strips and extension cords to 10 plus regular appliances before achieving that load. We used this primarily in camping or when using this vehicle as a CAMERA CAR where we put down the tail gate and mounted a Camera and lights off the rear deck to film a picture car driving behind us. Lights are the one area that draws a lot of power very quickly. If you are a photographer you can run a Bata Cam SP, monitor, VTR replay deck, Sound RC and about 5 photo floods before you get to the point where you will have a power shortage.

Batteries: Duel - Deep Cycle Optima Maintenance Free 12 volt - 65 Amp hours @ 750 Cold Cranking Amps. Can even operate upside down with ZERO possibility of a spill. These are the current state of the art in car battery technology and are not cheap. With two that means you have 130 Amp Hours and 1500 Amps of Cold Starting Power! These are specially designed for OFF ROAD APPLICATINS as they have tightly-wound spiral element resists jarring and vibration. Click here for more information. 6 Year Warrantee!

Keys: I have 3 sets of keys for the doors / tailgate / ignition and 2 sets for the rear bumper cargo area lock. Included in the 3 ignition keys is one rubber coated original and 2 copies.

Radiator: As mentioned this was replaced / rather re-cored to be a 5 column instead of a 3 column for greater cooling. One area that I was totally paranoid about was the fact that all the short wheel base FJ40s usually have over heating problems. This appears to be a serious problem for the FJ40s but, not the FJ60 station wagons... Granted the Chevy has an engine fan and we put in a 18 inch (blow through) front mounted high CFM cooling fan which we have never used except in Death Valley when we have the AC on as it was 104 degrees out side. I turned it on just to be on the safe side... Anyway with the added space of the FJ60 engine compartment and better / larger grill ventilation area makes all the difference in the world. Granted if you stop then you might have move of a problem and that is why I added the 18" fan. Regardless if you run the AC on this truck you MUST also turn on the 18" fan as the same switch operates the 18" fan and a smaller auxiliary fan that cools the AC pump motor. If you do not turn on this switch you run the risk of burning out the AC pump... a $550.00 item. In high insight I would likely change this over so that it is linked directly to the AC switch. We did not do this as we had already had the dash apart 8 or 9 times and did not wish to hassle with it one more time. No big deal as we marked the switch to indicate that you must turn it on and now we are use to it. IN SHORT THERE IS 100% NO OVERHEATING PROBLEM WITH OUR F60.

Gas Mileage: No matter how hard you run this you will never get worse than 14-16 miles per gallon (unless you are sitting in traffic for hours) and no matter how much you baby it; you will never get better than 18 miles per gallon. We run regular unleaded gas 89 octane as it seams the engine prefers this and that is what the manufacture recommends.

Odometer / Engine Mileage: As of 08-15-2002 the mileage reads as follows: (NOTE: That I still use this as my personal vehicle and drive it on a daily basis so the mileage listed below will vary no more than 500 miles by the time you buy it.)

• Actual Engine & Transmission Running Mileage: 8,978
• Suspension / Shocks Mileage: 18,500
• Tire Mileage: 11,500
• Chassis / Frame Mileage: 230,386

Requirements to test ride: